One of the most colorful aquarium fish is the turquoise acara. Distinguished by its striking mottled coloration and aggressive nature, it is the most popular member of the cichlid family. In the wild, this population can be found in the warm waters of southern African countries such as Ecuador and Peru.
Acara is not very fond of clean fresh water, so the fish try to settle in river mouths where ocean water with a characteristically high acid-base balance flows.
Often Inexperienced aquarists confuse the turquoise acara with the blue-spotted acara.Indeed, these fish share certain similarities and were even considered the same species for a long time. The turquoise acara is larger, reaching up to 30 cm at maturity in the wild, but an aquarium environment rarely allows the fish to grow larger than 15 cm. Much depends on the aquarium; the more spacious it is, the larger the specimen will be.
Your own The fish got its name from the unique blue-green sheen of its scales, shimmering in various shades in the light. Attached to the acara's sturdy, tall body are the dorsal and caudal fins, which have a beautiful bright orange edge. Much of the face and gills are covered in sinuous turquoise stripes.
Males are typically larger and more vibrantly colored than females. With age, a fatty growth develops on the male's forehead, and a pointed tip develops on the anal fin.
Males are typically larger and more vibrantly colored than females. With age, a fatty growth develops on the male's forehead, and a pointed tip develops on the anal fin.In other species of cichlids males occupy a dominant positionWhile female acaras are more temperamental and capable of pronounced aggression, turquoise fish are known in South America as "green terrorists" due to their fiery nature and inability to get along with other river inhabitants. However, they are highly intelligent fish. They are able to recognize their owners and will swim inquisitively toward the glass to assess them.
Acara turquoise: contents
To ensure full life and proper developmentAcaras require an aquarium with a capacity of 100-150 liters per fish. Caring for these pets is not difficult, but it's important to follow a few specific guidelines specific to this species. These fish love to dig up the soil. For their safety, the substrate should be free of large, sharp stones. Medium-sized round stones in 8-10 mm pebble substrate will minimize the risk of injury.
For an aquarium with aquatic inhabitants It is worth giving preference to artificial plants Or easy-to-care-for plants with a well-developed root system. The most common of these are: Thai fern, Java moss, Anubias, and Echinodorus. Plants and other decorative elements are secured with fishing line to driftwood or large rocks. This is done to prevent active fish during spawning from uprooting them while digging through the substrate. A large, flat boulder will likely be used as a spawning site.
Like all other American cichlids, the presented species, It thrives in water temperatures ranging from 23 to 27 degrees Celsius.They can tolerate temperature fluctuations of up to 18 degrees Celsius without adverse effects. Particular attention should be paid to water parameters such as acidity (6–8 pH) and hardness (5–20 dGH). Constant aeration and monitoring of water purity will ensure successful breeding and cultivation. At least once every two weeks, one-fifth of the tank water should be replaced. Hydrogen, ammonia, and nitrate levels always require proper monitoring.
Nutrition
Emergency The turquoise acaras' unpretentiousness to food This doesn't necessarily mean they're omnivorous. Essentially predators, they consume river plankton, small crustaceans, and worms. Domestication has made them practically omnivorous. Dry, specialized mixes or live food will equally provide pets with all the nutrients they need. Small pieces of cod, beef heart, squid, and steamed lettuce are favorite treats. To avoid digestive problems, acaras should be fed a varied diet no more than twice a day.
Compatibility
Everyone without exception American cyclids strive for space When they are given space and freedom to roam, stress and aggression are reduced. Turquoise acaras will, for no apparent reason, pick fights with their neighbors. However, some individuals, having reached sexual maturity under suitable conditions, become more docile. Given the highly unpredictable and varied nature of acaras, characterized by outbursts of unbridled aggression, it is advisable to keep only one peaceful pair in the aquarium. The following species demonstrate good compatibility with turquoise acaras:
- catfish
- spotted astronotus
- plecostomus
- severium
catfishAmong the fish with whom there will be unfriendly relations, the following can be highlighted:
- Managuan cichlisoma
- red-headed cichlozoma
- African cichlid
Small fish added to acaras will simply be eaten, while large ones, on the contrary, will pose a danger to life.
Breeding
Breeding these fish is quite a simple task., which doesn't require any special knowledge or skills. The female independently selects a partner for the birth of her offspring. However, if the connection fails, one of the unsuccessful parents must be replaced. A water change or an increase in its temperature will trigger spawning.
During the mating season Acaras acquire even brighter scale colors, and the stripes sparkle with a neon hue. You can observe the mated pair in close contact, constantly rubbing against each other and spreading their fins. The mating pair find a flat surface for spawning, where they can clear a small spawning area. This can be a smooth rock or, if one is unavailable, the regular glass bottom of the aquarium. At the same time, they dig up the substrate to create hiding places for the eggs, of which the female lays up to 300 at a time.
Female with takes the utmost care of the masonry, cleans it of unfertilized eggs, and aerates the healthy ones with its fins. Meanwhile, the male actively protects the offspring, patrolling the area and driving away intruders.
Sometimes parents eat their own eggsIf this is noticed, the person should move the eggs to another container, such as a jar. The water should be similar in quality to the water where the eggs spawned. Remove the dead white eggs with tweezers. To prevent infection of the fry, add antimicrobial and antifungal medications to the aquarium water. The larvae transform into fry on the third day, and the incubation period itself lasts four days. After about a month, the fry can be fed microplankton and Artemia nauplii.
